Petra requires more practical preparation than almost any other archaeological site on Earth. This is not because it's dangerous or difficult — it's because the gap between a poorly planned visit and a well-planned one is enormous. First-timers who arrive without understanding the Jordan Pass, without knowing to buy it before landing in Jordan, without appreciating that Petra is a full day of strenuous walking in an exposed desert landscape, and without understanding that the nearest town of Wadi Musa is a functional but basic place — those visitors often leave frustrated and physically depleted. The visitors who have done their homework arrive at the Treasury in the early morning light, walk to the Monastery before the crowds, drink tea with a Bedouin family in a carved alcove, and leave with one of the defining travel experiences of their lives. This guide is written to put you firmly in the second category.
Before You Arrive
Visas: Jordan operates a tourist visa-on-arrival system for citizens of most Western countries, including the United States, United Kingdom, European Union member states, Canada, Australia, and many others. The visa costs JOD 40 (approximately USD 56) and grants a 30-day single-entry stay. However — and this is critical — if you purchase the Jordan Pass before entering Jordan, the visa fee is included in the pass price. The Jordan Pass is available at jordanpass.jo and costs JOD 70 for a single Petra visit (one day), JOD 75 for two Petra visits, or JOD 80 for three visits. Given that Petra entry alone costs JOD 50 for one day or JOD 55 for two days, the pass represents extraordinary value. Buy it before you board your flight to Jordan. It must be purchased before arrival in the country.
Currency: The Jordanian Dinar (JOD) is one of the world's strongest currencies against the USD — 1 JOD equals approximately USD 1.41. Prices in Wadi Musa appear modest in JOD but translate to reasonable USD amounts. ATMs are available in Wadi Musa at the Arab Bank and Housing Bank, and most mid-range to upscale guesthouses accept credit cards. Budget guesthouses and restaurants operate primarily on cash. Withdraw JOD at an ATM rather than exchanging currency at the airport — the rates are significantly better. Carry JOD 50–100 in small bills (JOD 1, 5, 10) for guesthouses, food stalls, and tips.
SIM cards: Jordanian SIM cards are available from Zain, Orange, and Umniah at Queen Alia International Airport in Amman and at shops throughout Wadi Musa. A tourist SIM with 5–10 GB of data costs JOD 3–7 and works well throughout Wadi Musa and the approach roads. Inside the Petra archaeological park itself, signal is inconsistent — reliable in the central valley, weak or absent in the more remote hikes. Download offline maps (Google Maps or Maps.me) before entering the site.
Physical preparation: Petra involves substantial walking on uneven terrain. The round trip from the visitor centre to the Monastery and back is approximately 10–12 km with 400+ metres of elevation gain. Wear broken-in, closed-toe walking shoes — sandals are a mistake. Bring sun protection (hat, sunscreen SPF 50+, light long-sleeved layer). The site is open year-round, but summer (June–August) brings extreme heat; plan to start at 6 AM and retreat to your guesthouse by noon. Spring (March–May) and autumn (September–November) are optimal.
Getting from the Airport
Most international visitors arrive at Queen Alia International Airport (AMM) in Amman, approximately 330 km north of Wadi Musa. This is a significant distance — Petra is at the southern end of Jordan, and the journey requires planning.
The most comfortable and direct option is a private taxi from Amman to Wadi Musa, which costs JOD 45–60 depending on negotiation and takes 3–3.5 hours via the Desert Highway (Route 15). Negotiate the price firmly before departure and confirm it is the total price, not per person. Several reputable transfer companies operate fixed-price services from the airport — pre-booking online before arrival typically costs USD 70–90 and removes the negotiation entirely, a good option for late arrivals.
The JETT bus is the budget alternative. It departs from Amman's 7th Circle JETT terminal (not from the airport directly) at 6:30 AM, costs JOD 10 per person, and arrives in Wadi Musa approximately three hours later. From the airport to the JETT terminal, take an airport taxi (JOD 7–10) or Uber (typically JOD 5–8). This means an early start is required — the 6:30 AM departure demands an overnight near the airport or a very early morning transit if your flight arrives the previous night. The bus is reliable and comfortable; book online or at the JETT terminal counter a day in advance during peak season.
From Aqaba (King Hussein International Airport, AQJ), served by Ryanair from several European cities and regional carriers, the transfer to Wadi Musa is significantly shorter — 1.5 hours by taxi (JOD 35–45) or minibus (JOD 5–8 per person on shared services that depart when full). Flying into Aqaba rather than Amman saves considerable travel time if Petra is your primary destination.
Getting Around the Site
The Petra Archaeological Park is navigated almost entirely on foot. The main entry route leads from the visitor centre through a short stretch of paved road (where the included horse ride operates) before entering the Siq, the narrow rock gorge that serves as Petra's dramatic front entrance. The Siq is 1.2 km long and emerges at the Treasury. Walking speed through the Siq takes 20–30 minutes; many visitors slow considerably, stopping to study the ancient Nabataean water channels carved into the walls and the votive niches cut into the rock faces at intervals.
Beyond the Treasury, a main valley road continues through the Colonnaded Street, past the Royal Tombs (reached via steps climbing the eastern cliffs), to the Basin area where the Nabataean city's central quarter once stood. From the Basin, the ascent trail to the Monastery (Ad Deir) begins — it is the longest and most physically demanding path in the park, climbing 800 rock-cut steps over roughly 2 km. Allow 40–50 minutes for the ascent and plan a rest at the top.
The High Place of Sacrifice trail branches off the central valley before the Basin, climbing the western ridge via a series of Nabataean-cut steps. The round trip takes approximately 1.5–2 hours and passes natural obelisks, Nabataean water cisterns, and a sacrificial altar with extraordinary views. It is one of the most rewarding walks in the park and less crowded than the main valley routes.
Horse-drawn carriages operate between the Siq exit (near the Treasury) and the Basin Restaurant for JOD 20–30 each way — useful for visitors with limited mobility but unnecessary for those who can walk. Donkeys and camels are offered throughout the park at varying prices; none are needed for visiting the main sites. The park employs official guides who can be hired at the visitor centre for JOD 50–70 for a full-day guided tour — worthwhile for history enthusiasts who want context beyond what the site signs provide.
Where to Base Yourself
There is only one sensible base for visiting Petra: Wadi Musa. This is the town that has grown up around the archaeological site over the past five decades, and it sits directly adjacent to the visitor centre entrance. The town climbs a hillside above the entrance gate and comprises a main commercial street lined with restaurants, shops, ATMs, and pharmacies, plus several side streets leading to guesthouses at various price points.
Lower Wadi Musa (near the visitor centre entrance): The area immediately surrounding the Petra gate is the most convenient location for early-morning access and late-afternoon re-entry. Budget guesthouses like Valentine Inn (JOD 9–25) and mid-range hotels are clustered here. The trade-off is noise from tourist activity during the day, and some restaurants in this zone are priced for captive tourists rather than value-seekers. Hotels in this area include the Petra Guest House (JOD 40–70) — the only accommodation actually within the park boundaries — and several three-star properties in the JOD 35–60 range.
Mid-hill Wadi Musa (main commercial street area): The bulk of guesthouses and budget hotels are located along and just off the main road that runs through the centre of Wadi Musa. Rocky Mountain Hotel (JOD 8–20), Cleopetra Hotel (JOD 20–30), and dozens of similar properties are concentrated here. You're a 5–10 minute walk from the visitor centre entrance, the ATMs are nearby, and the restaurant options are more varied and honest in their pricing. This is where most independent budget travellers base themselves.
Upper Wadi Musa (hillside hotels with views): The upper part of town hosts the large resort hotels — the Mövenpick Resort Petra, Petra Marriott Hotel, and similar properties — which sit on the ridge above the central valley and offer dramatic views over the surrounding mountains. Rates run JOD 80–180 per night. While far outside the budget category, these hotels are worth knowing about for their restaurants, which occasionally offer lunch buffets or a la carte dining that day visitors can access — useful if you want a splurge midday meal after a morning in the park.
Local Culture and Etiquette
Jordan is a predominantly Muslim country with a culture that is, by regional standards, relatively relaxed and accustomed to international visitors. Wadi Musa and the Petra area in particular have been receiving international tourists for decades, and the local population is generally hospitable, patient, and accustomed to cultural differences. That said, several cultural norms are worth understanding before arrival.
Dress code: Inside the Petra archaeological park, practical walking clothes are appropriate and widely worn — shorts, t-shirts, and athletic clothing are all fine. Outside the park, in Wadi Musa town, modest dress is expected: women should avoid sleeveless tops and very short shorts, and a light scarf is useful for covering shoulders in restaurants or shops. Men in shorts are fine throughout the town. The Bedouin families who work within the park are accustomed to international visitors and do not apply strict dress expectations, but respectful behaviour is always appreciated.
Interactions with Bedouin vendors: Inside the archaeological park, you will encounter Bedouin Jordanians selling tea, jewellery, rocks, and donkey rides from carved alcoves and makeshift stalls throughout the site. These are not aggressive hawkers by global tourist-site standards, but they are persistent. A polite "la shukran" (no thank you) is the standard response and is universally respected. Accepting Bedouin tea — typically offered freely or for JOD 0.50–1 — is a genuine cultural exchange and one of the memorable human moments of a Petra visit. Never feel obligated to purchase anything after accepting tea.
Tipping: Tipping is customary in Jordan for restaurant service (round up or leave 5–10%), for taxi drivers (not obligatory but appreciated on longer journeys), and for guides (JOD 5–10 at the end of a full-day tour). Do not tip Bedouin vendors who offer "free" tea and then request a donation — this is a transaction, not a cultural hospitality gesture, and you're not obligated beyond what feels appropriate.
Photography: The Bedouin women who sometimes appear in traditional dress within the site for photography are aware that tourists photograph them — in tourist-heavy areas they may request payment (JOD 1–2 per photo). Always ask permission before photographing individuals. The archaeological structures, landscapes, and vistas may be photographed freely.
Friday prayers: Friday is the holy day in Jordan, and some shops and restaurants in Wadi Musa reduce hours or close during Friday midday prayers. The Petra site itself remains open throughout the week, including Fridays.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
1. Not buying the Jordan Pass before arriving in Jordan. This is the single most expensive mistake a Petra visitor can make. The pass cannot be purchased after you've entered the country. Visitors who realise this at the Petra gate face paying JOD 50 for entry plus the JOD 40 visa they've already paid — while their Jordan-Pass-holding fellow travellers paid JOD 70 total for both. Check jordanpass.jo before you finalize your flights.
2. Trying to see Petra in four hours as a day trip from Amman. Some tour operators offer day trips from Amman — this involves a 3-hour bus ride each way plus JOD 50 entry for roughly 4–5 hours inside the site. You will see the Treasury and the Colonnaded Street and nothing else. Petra rewards time. Two full days reveals a completely different site from the one visible in a half-day rush.
3. Wearing inappropriate footwear. Flip-flops, sandals, and smooth-soled shoes are all problematic on Petra's uneven stone paths, Nabataean-cut steps, and sandy valley floors. The Monastery's 800-step ascent on smooth sandals has produced genuine ankle injuries. Closed-toe shoes with grip are the minimum; lightweight hiking shoes or trail runners are ideal.
4. Underestimating the distances and heat. The round trip from the visitor centre to the Monastery and back is over 10 km with significant climbing. In April and May temperatures regularly exceed 30°C in the valley by midday. Visitors who arrive at 10 AM without water, a hat, or sun protection are setting themselves up for heat exhaustion. Start early, carry water, and retreat to your guesthouse for midday rest before returning in the afternoon.
5. Paying for horse or donkey rides inside the park. The free horse ride from the entrance to the Siq beginning is traditional and worthwhile. Everything else — donkeys to the Monastery, camels in the central valley — is an upsell. The animals are occasionally treated poorly, the rides are unnecessary for fit travellers, and the money is better spent on a good dinner. Walk.
6. Skipping Little Petra (Siq al-Barid). This free satellite site 8 km north of the main entrance receives a fraction of Petra's visitor numbers and offers an intimate, crowd-free Nabataean experience including painted ceiling frescoes in the Painted House — the best-preserved Nabataean painting anywhere. It takes 45 minutes to explore and is completely free. Most first-timers have never heard of it, which is precisely why it remains exceptional.
7. Ignoring the wadi walk back via the Siq in the late afternoon. Nearly every visitor walks the Siq in the morning rush to reach the Treasury and never experiences it at the other end of the day. Walking back through the Siq in late afternoon light — when the sandstone glows amber and the gorge has emptied out — is one of Petra's finest experiences and requires nothing beyond staying later than the tour groups.
