Havana First-Timer Guide: Visas, Currency & Surviving Cuba's Beautiful Chaos
Cuba plays by its own rules. The internet barely works. ATMs are unreliable. Credit cards from US banks are rejected. The currency system was recently overhauled but confusion lingers. Classic cars from the 1950s serve as daily transport. And somehow, despite all of this, Havana is one of the most magnetic cities in the world.
First-timers need practical preparation that goes beyond the usual "bring sunscreen" advice. Cuba's infrastructure limitations require planning that most Caribbean destinations don't. This guide covers the essentials: getting in, getting connected, getting paid, and getting around without losing your mind.
The Tourist Card (Visa)
Most nationalities need a tourist card (tarjeta de turista) to enter Cuba — a simple form, not a full visa. US citizens have additional requirements and must travel under one of 12 authorized categories (the most common being "Support for the Cuban People"). The tourist card costs $50-100 depending on where you purchase it.
Airlines flying to Cuba often sell tourist cards at the gate or check-in counter. Cuban consulates sell them in advance. Third-party services like Cuba Visa Services process them by mail for a premium. The card is valid for 30 days and can be extended once for another 30 days at immigration offices in Havana (CUP 2,500 / $25).
You also need proof of travel insurance that covers medical expenses in Cuba. Some airlines check this at boarding. Cuba offers insurance at the airport if you don't have it (approximately $3/day), but having your own policy is cheaper and more comprehensive.
Currency: The Post-Unification Reality
What Changed
Before January 2021, Cuba had two currencies: CUP (Cuban peso, for locals) and CUC (convertible peso, for tourists). The CUC has been eliminated. Cuba now uses only the CUP. However, many tourist businesses still quote prices in USD, EUR, or the defunct CUC — which creates confusion. When a paladar lists a meal at "$10," they mean 10 USD equivalent in CUP at whatever the current exchange rate is.
How to Get Pesos
Bring foreign cash (EUR or CAD preferred; USD incurs a 10% surcharge). Exchange at CADECA offices (government exchange) for the official rate. The informal market often offers significantly better rates — your casa host can facilitate a trusted exchange. ATMs exist but are frequently empty or offline. Do not rely on ATMs as your primary cash source.
US-affiliated credit and debit cards (Visa/Mastercard issued by US banks) do not work in Cuba. European, Canadian, and other non-US bank cards sometimes work but reliability is inconsistent. Cash is king in Cuba — plan accordingly.
Internet and Connectivity
ETECSA WiFi
Cuba does not have widespread mobile data for tourists. Internet access is primarily through ETECSA (the state telecom company) WiFi hotspots in parks and public areas. You buy a prepaid card (CUP 100-200 / $1-2 per hour) from ETECSA offices or street vendors (at a markup), scratch off the code, and log in at a hotspot.
Connection speeds are slow — email and messaging work, video calls struggle, and streaming is essentially impossible. The main WiFi parks in Havana are Parque Central (Old Havana), the Malecon at Calle G (Vedado), and the Hotel Nacional garden. You'll recognize hotspots by the clusters of people staring at their phones — a distinctly Cuban scene.
Some casas and hotels now offer private WiFi (often using the same ETECSA network), and connectivity is slowly improving. But expect significant periods of being offline. Many travelers find this liberating — Havana without constant connectivity forces you into the present moment.
Casa Particular vs Hotel
Casa Particular (Recommended)
Private home stays are the heart of Cuban tourism. Your host provides a room, local knowledge, restaurant recommendations, and often arranges transport and excursions at local rates. Breakfast (CUP 300-500 / $3-5) is typically a massive spread that eliminates the need for lunch. The personal connection with a Cuban family provides cultural context that no hotel can match.
Rooms are clean with private or shared bathrooms, air conditioning (usually), and hot water (usually). Quality varies — read reviews on Airbnb or ask fellow travelers for recommendations. The blue anchor symbol on building facades indicates a licensed casa.
Hotels
State-run hotels range from faded grandeur (Hotel Nacional, Hotel Ambos Mundos) to Soviet-era functionality (various Islazul properties). Service is generally slower than private sector alternatives. The hotels with history and atmosphere (Nacional, Saratoga, Ambos Mundos) are worth visiting for a drink or a meal even if you're sleeping at a casa.
Getting from the Airport
Jose Marti International Airport (HAV) sits 18 km south of central Havana. Official taxis at the arrivals exit charge CUP 2,500-3,500 ($25-35) to Old Havana or Vedado (fixed prices posted on signs). The ride takes 25-40 minutes depending on traffic. Pay in CUP or equivalent foreign currency.
There is no Uber in Cuba. No public bus runs from the airport to the city. Your casa host can arrange a private driver for similar prices — worth pre-arranging so someone is waiting with your name. Exchange a small amount of money at the airport CADECA to cover the taxi if paying in CUP.
Practical Essentials
| Essential | Details | Cost |
|---|---|---|
| Tourist card (visa) | At airline counter or consulate | $50-100 |
| Travel insurance | Required, checked at entry | $3-10/day |
| ETECSA WiFi card (1 hour) | ETECSA office or street vendors | CUP 100-200 ($1-2) |
| Airport taxi to Old Havana | Official taxi from arrivals | CUP 2,500-3,500 ($25-35) |
| Pharmacy basics | Bring from home — Cuban pharmacies have limited stock | N/A |
What to Bring from Home
Cuba's supply chain is unpredictable. Pharmacies frequently lack basic medications. Sunscreen, insect repellent, and specific toiletries may be unavailable or extremely expensive. Pack: all prescription medications with extras, over-the-counter pain relief and anti-diarrheal medicine, sunscreen, mosquito repellent, a basic first aid kit, and any toiletries you're particular about.
Many travelers also bring small gifts for casa hosts — cosmetics, children's toys, school supplies, or clothing are deeply appreciated. This isn't obligatory, but Cuba's supply shortages make everyday items meaningful gifts.
Safety
Havana is one of the safest capitals in Latin America for violent crime. Mugging and assault against tourists are rare. Petty scams — overcharging, misdirection, fake cigars — are the primary concern. If someone approaches you on the street offering cigars, tours, or restaurant recommendations, they're earning a commission. Politely decline unless you've sought them out.
Walking at night in Old Havana and the Malecon is generally safe. Centro Habana requires more awareness after dark — stick to lit streets. Vedado is safe throughout.
Havana is unlike any other destination in the Americas, and that uniqueness extends to its practical challenges. The visa, the currency, the connectivity, the cash dependency — all require preparation that other Caribbean islands don't demand. But the reward is a city of extraordinary beauty, warmth, and cultural depth that exists nowhere else. Plan your days with our Havana 3-day itinerary.
